DAY 7 WEDNESDAY 12 MAY 2022 ELIZONDO/BAZTAN VALLEY in Basque Country
We had breakfast at the apartment again, toast and cheese, coffee. Sunglasses will be required. Forecasted high in the upper 80s. We will talk with Asun and to see if she is up for the ride to Pamplona tonight for dinner at Nekane’s and to see Julia and Fermin.
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| Our Pamplona Family: Loles, Nekane, Fernando, and Julia Fermin was in bed already |
Asun now 83 (1939) suffers from vertigo and can no longer enjoy a ride in a vehicle so no, she will not come along for this evening’s trip. She mentioned that Dr. Juan Miguel had asked her to come outside and go for a walk around town so he could observe her balance and ability to walk with a cane to help her balance. Apparently riding in a car makes it even worse but she is taking “dos pastillas” and she thinks it might be a bit better. She looks terrific for 83, vertigo notwithstanding! We told her we had been to the cemetery the day before to have a word with Miguel and leave a plant. She has not been there for a while, short walks only for now until the vertigo improves. Very isolating for her but she said people come to visit and as she lives practically in the center of town she can walk down to Mendi’s (which was a bar she and Miguel started!) to have dinner or pintxos once in a while with friends.
| Izpegi |
The tiny, barely one lane road is great for bicycles climbing to the crossing into France but way too narrow with multiple switchbacks for cars. I hung on to the handle to stabilize myself and my involuntary, frequent gasps as another car came towards us at warp speed with hardly any room to pass must have really annoyed Paul but he didn’t say anything! However, we made it and as per Guillermo’s recommendation, we tried the eating establishment on the left side for lunch. Venta Irigoieneio, Chez Peio Bar Restaurant. It is really interesting that often they cannot figure out what nationality we are. We strung him along for a bit as he tried French, Spanish and Basque, and then really flummoxed him when I told him I was Scottish! Lol! Then we told him Paul was one of the Americanos from the Base de Gorramendi. After pointing out Gorramendi in the far distance he said he recognized me from the Dairio de Navarre newspaper article with photos from 2013 during our reunion to La Base Gorramendi and Elizondo. We laughed about the headline that said “ Los Antiquos Americanos have come back to visit” The bar owner chatted with us as he remembered doing his military service in the Spanish Air Force guarding us Americans during the 1960s!! He was extremely proud that we had come to Izpegi to dine and visit!! It really was a delightful lunch! We told him we were great friends with the late Miguel and his family and that was why we kept coming back to visit.
| Wild Ponies on Access Road |
Lots of cyclists cycle up to the pass and then back down. Our Friend Guillermo among them. Phew! Really good legs I say! I don’t remember seeing so many cyclists on the road in the past but I guess with the Pandemic it is good way to get out, away from people and exercise. The way back down seemed shorter and less hazardous! This Valle de Baztan is truly beautiful. Mountains and trees surround us, green meadows full of crops and animals! Horses galore with their newborn foals, sheep and cows also with their new babies, just breathtaking.
A short siesta before our drive to Pamplona we stopped to buy a couple bottles of vino to take along to dinner and we were off following the Ford Puma GPS rig in the car. Again, a fabulous drive over the mountains which used to be very hazardous as you jockeyed for road room with very underpowered trucks on narrow roads with endless switchbacks! Now we have a couple of tunnels and we avoid the Velate Pass. I remember many times on the way back from Torrejon how crazy it was, beautiful but crazy. There is a nice restaurant up there too.
| Elbete |
We found Nekane and Fernando”s apartment and even found a parking spot in their building courtyard area below. The area where they live is near the old castle walls with lovely parks around them. Paul under Loles’ guidance bought a parking ticket to cover us thru 8:00PM and we were off to begin our visit.
Julia is now almost 4 and is very blond with blue eyes. Fermin is just 18 months, with beautiful dark eyes and hair and is a typical ALL boy not talking but able to make himself understood. He especially liked my beard which was new for him!!! We brought Mickey Mouse for Fermin, and Julia got a picture book of animals. Both were a hit because Julia’s favorite toys are Mickey and Minnie ( which we brought for her right after she was born) although she does not share them with Fermin but now he has his own Mickey….problem has been solved.
| Mirador de Baztan |
Dinner was typical selected tapas, tortilla de patatas, croquettes, serrano ham, cheese, vino, etc… good bread. Loles was there too, she has a job teaching French classes and is happy to be busy. Nekane returned to work after 4 months off with Fermin. Lucky that Julia’s school is a part of Nekane’s job so they go in together. Fernando is fine not traveling for work but still struggles to pinpoint food allergies with his doctor’s help.
We had a terrific evening with terrific people. Family in fact, we have known Loles for 52 years and Nekane since she was born. If 52 years of friendship does not count as family, I don’t know what does!
Then someone dropped the bombshell that the Tunnels would be closing at 10pm for maintenance work! If we did not leave at once we could get caught going home the old way over Velate behind all the others, trucks etc! Loles had come by bus,(easier than trying to find a parking space) and wanted a ride home with us which is on our way out of town. We hurriedly gathered our things and off we went with Loles in tow, we said our goodbyes etc and hugs/kisses all around.
| Mirador de Baztan |
Made it thru the tunnels without any delays, except there was a heavy pea soup fog at the top of the pass and all the way down to the Baztan valley. At least it took the bugs off the windshield!! Back home at 1030 before a few sprinkles began falling. Another fine day in the north exactly why we had ventured back to Espana. It was very busy but fabulous day.

Muchas gracias por vuestra visita y muchos besos.
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